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Čiekurkalns guide

The famous song “Daļa Rīgas” by Latvian band Astro'n'out is dedicated to one of the most colorful and at the same time unloved districts of the city—Maskavas forštate, Maskačka or, as it is called now, Latgale neighbourhood. But we are convinced that there are plenty of districts in Riga that can surprise you no less, and maybe even more. We suggest going for a walk to Čiekurkalns—not the most famous neighbourhood of the city, but it has preserved the spirit of the old times and definitely deserves attention.

Čiekurkalns guide
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The modern layout and appearance of Čiekurkalns began to take shape in the 1870s. At that time these lands belonged to the Šreienbuša estate, and the current main transportation artery of the neighbourhood—Čiekurkalna 1. līnija—was called Šreienbušas 1. līnija. Such a strange name was given to local streets 150 years ago and it has stuck to this day. 

The district began to develop actively after the opening of the railway station—starting in the 1890s. Factories were built here, and Čiekurkalns became a densely populated workers’ settlement—it was included in the city only in 1924. During the Soviet occupation it was one of the most slowly developing districts of Riga, which did not contribute to the quality of life of the people, but led to the preservation of the historical architectural environment. The streets still have cobblestones pavement instead of asphalt, and you will find a lot of authentic details on the facades of buildings. 

Čiekurkalns guide
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Interesting places 

Library garden

The best place for relaxation and cultural program is the library and its garden at Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 64. It regularly hosts free exhibitions and creative events. In the garden, deck chairs are stretched out between the trees and photos taken by locals hang on the fence. The library building regularly hosts temporary exhibitions.

For example, throughout October in one of the halls you could see the works of Vija Liepa, who mastered the ancient technique of knitting with one needle (vienas adatas pinuma tehnika). We advise you to set aside at least half an hour to browse the library, as there is a good chance that you will accidentally meet friendly neighborhood residents, artists, and library staff who will tell you interesting stories about Čiekurkalns. This is exactly what happened to our author Aleksandrs, who met Vija Liepa and her friend at the exhibition.

Čiekurkalns guide
Čiekurkalns branch library
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Čiekurkalns guide
Čiekurkalns branch library
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Čiekurkalns holy tree

It was Vija Liepa and her friend who told us about a sacred place in the neighborhood—the square near the school and kindergarten on the Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 53A. For many years the now lost holy tree grew here—people used to bring offerings here to bring good luck. For example, fishermen used to hang ribbons on the branches when they went fishing.

There are many such trees in Latvia. In the ground under them, ancient coins and other valuable items are often found—things that people have left as gifts for decades. Unfortunately, the ancient Čiekurkalns tree did not survive to this day, and a young tree is now growing nearby in its memory.  

Čiekurkalns guide
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LMS Radošais kvartāls Kombināts Māksla

The creative quarter belongs to The Artists’ Union of Latvia (LMS). On the area of more than 7000 m2 there are bronze foundries, metalworking, jewelry, sculpture and leather workshops. This place has been associated with art and creativity for over 100 years. 

Čiekurkalns guide
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Dozens of artists’ works stand in the open air and anyone can look at them. You can also observe the process of creating sculptures. There is both classic art, contemporary art, and works that may seem a little strange to some. 

Čiekurkalns guide
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Čiekurkalns guide
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PATILTES street art gallery under the automobile bridge

One of the most unusual art galleries in Riga—the street art gallery PATILTES—is located under a wide automobile bridge in the Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 14. It was created in 2021 by representatives of the Popper art association.

New graffiti regularly appears here: some of them are coordinated with Riga City Council, and some are the works of random street artists.

Čiekurkalns guide
Patiltes galerija 
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Viskaļi cultural space

A place with a completely unique creative atmosphere. In a building on the outskirts of the city, where the faculty of Riga Technical University used to be located, artists have taken up residence since 2019. Many artifacts from half a century ago have been preserved here: a giant panel on the wall, furniture and other interior items.

Čiekurkalns guide
Viskaļi  
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Viskaļi houses dozens of workshops and, if you make arrangements with the residents, you can watch them create their work. Concerts and theater shows are sometimes held in the large hall. The current program of events can be found at the link. Renovation of the territory is also the responsibility of the Free Riga community, which has breathed new life into many abandoned places.

Learn more about Riga’s creative neighborhoods in our article at the link.

Čiekurkalns guide
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Lost beach on Lake Ķīšezers

Behind the Viskaļi cultural space there is a little-known sandy beach where locals go to relax and fish. It is cozy and quiet—a perfect place for those who want to get away from the noise of the city. 

Architectural sights

The most unusual church in Riga

Until the 1980s, the Riga Evangelical Lutheran Mission Church (Rīgas evaņģēliski luteriskā Misiones baznīca) in the Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 78 was an unremarkable building. The building was built in the early 1920s, ascetic in its geometry. The house of worship operated continuously even during the Soviet occupation.

The appearance of the church began to transform in the mid-1980s, when the artist Oļģerts Miķelsons joined the parish. In 1983 he moved to Čiekurkalns from Jūrmala and almost immediately started transforming the church grounds. By the way, before that he created art works on the territory of his former house in Majori (4 Rīgas St), which have been partially preserved to this day.

Čiekurkalns guide
Viskaļi  
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The work was carried out for a very long time—more than 20 years. Oļģerts gradually collected materials for his mosaic sculptures: he brought pebbles from Jūrmala in bags, used bottles and pieces of tile, which were given by people who were not indifferent to his work. The result was one of the most visually unconventional churches not only in Riga, but also in the whole of Latvia.

In 2017, the church ensemble, along with the artist’s works, was included in the list of local art monuments protected by the state. Oļģerts Miķelsons passed away in 2019 at the age of 92. He went down in history as the Gaudi of Čiekurkalns—his works are close to the work of the famous Catalan architect.

Functionalist style school

Opposite Riga’s most unusual church stands a school, one of the most striking examples of Latvian functionalism from the first third of the 20th century. It was built in 1933 according to the project of the famous architect Alfrēds Grīnbergs. Laconic cubistic forms, ribbon windows, a long balcony with an expressive rounding, light shades and the absence of decorative elements—features of European architecture popular in the 1920s and early 1930s. In this context it is appropriate to recall the works of such contemporaries of Grīnbergs as Le Corbusier, Walter Gropius from the German Bauhaus, Alvar Aalto, Konstantin Melnikov and many others. 

Red School and the water tower

On the opposite side of the neighborhood stands a school with a completely different style. This is one of the so-called Red Schools, designed and built according to the drawings of Reinhold Georg Schmaeling at the beginning of the 20th century. All of them are made in neo-Gothic style using red bricks and are similar to each other. But the school in Čiekurkalns is quite different from the others in its layout. The thing is that in 1926 a new building was added to it, which was designed by architect Jānis Gailis.

Čiekurkalns guide
The International School of Riga
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This additional building stylistically echoes the original 1911–1912 building. The massive water tower next to it was built at the same time as the school. It was designed by the famous architect Wilhelm Bockslaff, who created a similar water tower in Āgenskalns at 4 Alīses St.

Čiekurkalns guide
Water tower
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Where to eat?

Čiekurkalns has a small selection of cafes. In fact, there’s only one place to eat here—the chain cafe Mr. Bobs. But it’s decorated in a local spirit and even has local treats. For example, the richly flavored Čiekurkalns kvass is one of the main trademarks of this place. The walls are decorated with oil paintings of views of the neighborhood streets. The café has two terraces: an indoor and an outdoor one, so you can watch the local cats and birds while you eat.

Čiekurkalns guide
Author : editor nbhd
Date: 12.11.24
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