Jurmala neighborhood guide

Quiet Priedaine

This area of Jurmala is separated from the main part of the city by the Lielupe River. You can easily get here by bicycle from Riga along the cycle path, or you can ride across the bridge and through the woods from Bulduri. There are no crowds of vacationers or unnecessary noise, and the picturesque river banks are hugged by high dunes.

Priedaine station is a characteristic example of the Latvian school of architecture of the late 1930s. We write more about this, as well as about the architecture of Jurmala in general, in our guide for Neighborhood+.

Here the light decorative Art Deco is combined with utilitarian functionalism. The facade is decorated with a relief symbol of railroads with a wheel and wings.

After walking a few kilometers along the cozy streets and forest path along the coast, you will get to a unique natural attraction — twenty-meter high White Dune. For a visit we advise you to choose a weekday, when there are fewer vacationers. And, of course, it is better to go in clear weather — then the white sand of the dune glows beautifully in the sun.

Premium Bulduri

The architecture of Bulduri railway station refers to the Art Deco style popular in Latvia in the 1920s and 1930s. It was built by Voldemārs Ozoliņš in 1947 on the site of a wooden building that burned down during World War II. This is one of the most interesting examples of continuity in Latvian construction — a continuation of architectural traditions formed during the decades of independent Latvia. Very soon the ascetic Art Deco, balancing on the verge of functionalism, will be replaced by pompous Stalinism, and then by Khrushchev’s «elimination of excesses».

It is in Bulduri and neighboring Lielupe that the most luxurious and expensive summer houses of famous people from all over the world are located. Some plots are comparable in size to neighborhoods and occupy a huge space between four streets.

In addition to private houses in Bulduri there are also multi-storey buildings. One of the largest is the Belorusija Sanatorium at 4/8 Bulduru Avenue. It is a typical example of utilitarian Soviet modernism with a rather simple and not the most expressive facade. But take a look inside and you will fall in love with it. Climb the elegant staircase and admire the huge stained glass window in the abstract mid-century modern spirit. In 2022, the sanatorium is in trouble because of sanctions against Belarus, but hopefully the new owner will continue the local tradition of mud baths, and maybe even add something new to the list of classic medical procedures.

Resort Dzintari and Majori

These are probably the two most famous districts of Jurmala, but the architecture of the railway stations may disappoint you. The old wooden station Majori was demolished in 1992, and in its place appeared a building with a slight hint of the postmodernism style popular at the time: long glass polyhedrons on the ceiling, sloping roof and a bit daring forms in general. But it doesn’t really qualify as an outstanding work of art, no matter how you look at it. The Dzintari stop, on the contrary, is as austere in its architecture as possible: modernist asceticism and no excesses. If you like minimalism, this 1980-built station might be to your liking.

The history of Dzintari and Majori is closely connected with the so-called «country house boom» of the late 19th and early 20th century. The impetus for the construction of rich mansions was the opening of the railroad in 1877. Since that time beach recreation with various accompanying medical procedures has been actively developed here. One of the most popular are still considered to be bathing in hot baths and therapeutic muds. Modern spa centers and sanatoriums offer an extremely original procedure — amber therapy. First your body is peeled with fine amber powder and then massaged with amber pieces. You can try it all at Hotel Jūrmala SPA on Jomas Street, 47/49.

If after relaxing procedures you would like to consolidate the result with a glass of good wine, keep in mind: one of the best wine shops in the city is located on Jomas Street, 50 — this place is appreciated by connoisseurs of not only wine but also rare cognacs and whiskeys. Not far away on Pilsoņu Street, 8, you can check into one of the most luxurious hotels in Jurmala «TB Palace hotel & Spa». Judging by the name, in addition to exquisite rest you will also be offered amber peeling and mud procedures.

Dzintari is one of the most famous buildings in Jurmala — Dzintaru koncertzāle. Many people know it for the numerous concerts held in the unique hall without walls, but with a ceiling. The complex also consists of a small closed hall built in 1936 according to the project of architects Viktors Mellenbergs and Aleksandrs Birzenieks. It is an interesting example of preserved wooden architecture combining neoclassical and art deco features with national romantic elements.

The large open-air hall was attached to the small one only at the beginning of the 1960s. Another famous Latvian architect, Modris Ģelzis, was involved in its design. Despite the fact that the mashed potato hall has been designed many times since its construction, it has retained its original charm: in addition to the concert program, the audience can hear the sounds of the sea. Connoisseurs recommend entering the Great Hall during a storm — you’ll have an unforgettable experience.

One of the most unusual objects of Majori is the ice arena. Connoisseurs of modern architecture should see it as soon as possible because at the end of 2022, news about the dismantling of the construction began to appear. The building was opened in 2008 according to the project of the architectural bureau Substance. The authors received many awards for their unconventional approach and interesting solution of the covered dome made of lightweight material. But the original project was intended for an ordinary gym of the local school. The ice rink appeared later, as ice hockey and figure skating are some of the most popular sports. Due to the change in functionality, the building started to cause more and more problems over time and the municipal authorities decided to rebuild it.

Winding Dubulti

The layout of the roads in Dubulti stands out from the rest of Jurmala. Crooked streets smoothly transition into a more typical for the city strict linear scheme of resort development of neighboring Maiori and Pumpuri. This «irregularity» of Dubulti is explained by the fact that even before the boom and the construction of expensive cottages here was a fishing village. A synagogue building built in 1903 has been preserved on its territory. In the times of the Russian Empire, Jews were allowed to live only in strictly designated places, there was even a special sedentary line. In the vicinity of the fishing village was one of the few areas on the coast in the vicinity of Riga, where Jews could settle, but with a number of restrictions. For example, the synagogue building was built as a canteen for the poor, and in the summer time religious rites were held there.

Dubulti railway station is one of the outstanding examples of ascetic but expressive modernism. Here you can feel the influence of biomorphism — architecture of smooth organic forms, characteristic of buildings of the middle of the XX century. But at the same time, this building looks quite brutal against the background of the surrounding low-rise buildings. Igor Yavein, who designed the station, tried to convey the power and beauty of a sea wave in this dynamic reinforced concrete structure. But in this case, form does not dominate over function, but only emphasizes the context of the place.

The building was built in 1977 — it is one of the last works of the outstanding Soviet architect. By the way, his son, Nikita Yavein, continues his father’s work and is considered one of the most famous designers of modern St. Petersburg. Now the station is used not only for its intended purpose, but also as a space for temporary exhibitions.

On the approach to the bay, on Parka Street, 1, there is a smart wooden house. There are many similar to it on the coast of Jurmala, but there is a nuance: around the building, there are dozens of amazing and a little frightening wooden sculptures. Here dragons neighbor with squirrels, and owls with turtles — this fairytale place is called «Undīne» in honor of water spirits from Germanic mythology. It was created by eco-activists who regularly organize events ranging from yoga classes to poetry evenings. Don’t hesitate to pay them a visit — inside you’ll find a library with a rich collection of fairy tales from different parts of the world.

There is the sea, but where is the fish? Not far from the station, at Dubultu Avenue 18, there is a small store called «Svaigas zivis», where you can buy anything you like: from the most common sprats to lamprey and eel. The local assortment includes many local species of sea, lake and river inhabitants, and therefore depends on the current season. For example, for lamprey it is better to come closer to the twentieth of August.

Years go by, generations change, restaurants go bankrupt and reopen, but one thing remains unchanged — the cheburechnaya on Baznīcas Street, 2. If you are a fan of simple food at low prices and like to visit truly legendary places, then this eatery will surely please you. True fans of fried goodies even see the design of the modernist Dubulti railway station not as a wave, but as half a cheburek.

Strawberry Asari and Melluži

From the 1870s to the end of the 1910s, these places were the center of strawberry growing in Latvia. There were even special pavilions where the berries were stored before they were shipped to the places where they were sold, mainly to St. Petersburg. The local forests are also popular with blueberry lovers. The name of Melluzhi station unambiguously hints at the abundance of this berry in its vicinity.

Asari station building is one of the most expressive buildings in Jurmala. It was designed in the late 1910s by architect Peter Fedders, whose works can also be seen in St. Petersburg, Nizhny Novgorod, Astrakhan, Warsaw and other cities. The multifaceted pavilion with large windows, which is expressively illuminated from within at night, attracts particular attention.

In the Melluži and Asari districts, there is a huge number of interesting modern and not so modern houses. Their artistic solution can surprise even the most sophisticated viewer. Here you can find both minimalist mansions resembling giant granite rocks, and wooden houses with openwork carvings and turrets, and richly decorated stone «palaces». We recommend to bring your bicycle or scooter and ride along the cozy streets along the shore — you will definitely not remain indifferent to the local lamp atmosphere.

If you get tired and hungry, visit the legendary Madam Brioš café at 9 Mellužu Avenue. Here you can try fresh pastries and coffee or have a full lunch. Nearby is a park with a rare architectural structure — a wooden stage, partially preserved from the 1930s. Although it was reconstructed after World War II, it is considered one of the oldest in the Baltic States.

Fans of modernist architecture from the second half of the 20th century will also find something to see here. At 19 Mellužu Avenue, there is an excellent example of late Soviet architecture — the House of Composers, built in 1987. The long stepped terraces, which have become a trademark of the neighborhood, were designed by Vera Savisko. The building has now lost its original function and has been converted into an apartment building.

One of the most interesting examples of modernism of the 1970s not only in Latvia but also in the entire former Soviet Union is the National Rehabilitation Center «Vaivari», located near the station of the same name, at 61 Asaru Avenue. From afar, it resembles a pyramid, and its facade style refers to the decks of a sea liner.

Industrial Sloka

Sloka and its surroundings are very different from the rest of Jurmala: there is a widespread multi-storey building with typical Soviet houses. Against this background it seems surprising that one of the first settlements of the coast appeared here. The station built in 1877 is one of the oldest in Jurmala. Earlier it was a large industrial center with a pulp and paper mill, which was closed by 1994 — it seriously harmed the local environment and experienced economic difficulties. Now only a few buildings and two massive chimneys remain. Nowadays, video and photo shoots are often held here, including the filming of music videos for famous bands.

Take a walk through the alleys of old Sloka to the preserved gates of the mill at 4 Dzērvju Street, and then walk to one of the oldest Lutheran churches in Jurmala at 4 Raiņa Street. The first church in this place was built at the end of the XVI century, and the current building dates back to 1851. On the way, you will probably meet chickens and other domestic animals.

To the west of Sloka there is another important area of the city, Kemeri. It is very popular among lovers of quiet outdoor recreation. It is here that the famous marsh trail with bird watching towers and local animals can be found. This place is so full of interesting natural and architectural objects that we decided to dedicate a separate article to Kemeri.