It is most pleasant to meet the golden autumn surrounded by oaks, maples and other deciduous trees, which become especially beautiful in early October. The coast of the Gulf of Riga, which is a favorite of many Latvians, is not very suitable for this—pine forests stretch for many kilometers along the sand dunes, which are the same color both in winter and in summer. The Gauja River valley with its high banks, rocks and magnificent trees with leaves of different shapes is another matter. And when combined with ancient castles, such a landscape becomes unforgettable. In this respect, Sigulda is ideal for a weekend trip to Riga. Just an hour of road and you are in the atmosphere of a good fairy tale: towers, churches, beautiful houses, caves, hills…. And instead of a dusty tavern, often featured in fairy tale stories from the Middle Ages, there are cozy restaurants and cafes.
Fascinating nature
The nature of the Gauja River valley is one of Latvia’s main calling cards. Its waterfalls, rapids, rocky outcrops and cliffs combined with ancient castles can mesmerize even the most sophisticated viewer. The Gauja is compared to other beautiful river landscapes in Europe, such as the Rhine River near Lorelei Rock. Gauja means a lot to the culture of the Latvian nation—it is not without reason that artists and poets dedicate numerous works to it.
The depth of the valley near Sigulda reaches 85 meters, which makes it the deepest in the Baltic States. Red, yellow, grayish-white sandstones are common here—such a variety of stony rocks is not found anywhere else in the region of the southern coast of the Baltic Sea, especially in such a concentration.
Autumn adds even more colors. Willows are mostly found along the riverbank, while birch trees, as well as oaks, ash trees and maples are found on the hillsides: each type of tree contributes to the mosaic of the landscape.
Lifelong love
But the high shores of Gauja River can not only inspire people, but also become a natural obstacle in the development of love relationships. This is exactly what happened to a young man, Aivars, who fell in love with the beautiful Genoveva an employee of the local sanatorium, Krimulda. Every evening he accompanied her from one shore of Gauja River to the other.
At some point Aivars saw the cover of the 19th issue of the magazine Ogonyok for 1956, which depicted a cable car in the Georgian town of Chiatura. And then the idea struck him: why not build one in Sigulda to make the journey to Krimulda and back easier? He was ready to face the difficulties on the way to this idea.
One day Aivars promised his beloved that one day they would “fly” over Gauja River like birds. And he kept his word, although it happened many years later—the Sigulda cable car was officially opened on January 3, 1969.
Nowadays, anyone can take a ride on this cable car. It is probably one of the best places to contemplate the fall scenery in Latvia. If your heart isn’t in the right place, you might find love here, just like Aivars and Ganoveva.
What to see
Turaida Castle
There are many nature trails around the castle, with picnic shelters and viewpoints that offer views of the ancient buildings and surrounding hills covered in dense forest.
But the best panoramas can still be admired from the tower of Turaida Castle. A very atmospheric narrow stone staircase leads up to it. The tower, walls and other buildings were restored in the second half of the 20th century. Earlier the castle looked much more ruined. During its long history (since the 13th century) it has seen a lot.
Sigulda Castle
The impressive ruins of Sigulda Castle are located a few kilometers from Turaida Castle. If you come to the city by public transportation and are not ready for long hillside walks between the two castles, you can limit yourself to visiting only one of them. For a small fee you will have the opportunity to walk along the fortress walls, see a small museum exhibition, as well as climb the towers, from which you can see impressive views of the valley of the Gauja River and the Turaida Castle.
Opposite the ancient castle stands the so-called Sigulda New Castle, built in 1878–1881 from large stone boulders in neo-Gothic style. In fact, of course, it is not a defensive structure, but the main dwelling house of the estate. In the 19th century it was fashionable to romanticize ancient architecture and create buildings remotely resembling centuries-old castles. Inside the Sigulda New Castle, unique interiors from 1937, made in the spirit of national romanticism, have been preserved.
Lutheran Church
The history of this church dates back to the 15th century, but the most distinctive and from afar noticeable architectural detail—the reinforced concrete tower—was created in the 1930s. For a small donation you can climb up to the observation deck and look down on the tree-lined Sigulda from above. The interior retains 19th century ceiling lights, and temporary exhibitions are held on the second floor balcony.
Gutman’s Cave
This is the highest and widest cave in the Baltic States: 18.8 meters deep, 12 meters wide with a maximum height of 10 meters. It was formed by a small underground spring, which washed out the loose rock over several millennia. The sandstone here is so soft that visitors from ancient times could carve “decorations” on the walls of the cave: their initials and dates of visits, love or indecent messages and even family coats of arms of the owners of the surrounding estates. Keep in mind that writing on the walls of the cave is forbidden, as this place is protected by the state as a natural monument.
There is an equipped nature trail leading from Sigulda Castle to the Gutman’s Cave. It runs along the picturesque banks of the Gauja River and through a small forest area, where wild roe deer and other local animals often walk.
Where to eat
Jāņa Tirgus
Just a stone’s throw from the train and bus station is a small modern market where you can try local products and have a snack in a café. Dishes here are quite standard, but there is a wide range of products, reasonable prices and quite cozy atmosphere. For example, they cook pizzas, burgers, sushi, WOK, kebabs, steaks, kebabs, soups and so on. They brew pretty good coffee, and for dessert there is a large selection of sweets and ice cream. The market has a stage where musicians and theater groups sometimes perform. There is also a place where you can pour free drinking water into your own containers and avoid buying bottled drinks, thus reducing plastic waste.
Mr. Biskvits
By the name of the cafe it is immediately clear that this is a paradise for sweet tooths. Indeed, there is a large selection of cakes, but there are also full breakfasts and lunches: marinated chicken, baked salmon, potato pancakes, Thai soup with coconut milk, game chowder and even Alsatian Flammekueche. In terms of wine and other alcohol, the selection is small, but on the other hand, you won’t have to suffer the agony of choice. There are also 8 types of coffee, cocoa, several brewed teas and other soft drinks.
Creative neighborhoods
Siguldas Pils kvartāls
In the creative quarter of the neo-Gothic Sigulda New Castle you will be surprised by a variety of workshops: a tannery, paper art, walking cane making, sand gallery and others. You can try your hand at these crafts or simply buy an original product for the interior of your home. You can find a large selection of souvenirs from local craftsmen.
Zaļās Villas kvartāls
A cozy and ecologically oriented neighborhood that combines innovation and tradition. A unique feature of this neighborhood are group meditation sessions and chamber concerts where people sing together to guitar. There is also a retreat center and a cozy garden, and regular eco-festivals. Events are organized in several languages.
