How street food influences urban development: 5 strategies from Baltic capitals

Gastronomy is an important sector of the urban economy and its driving force. It includes food production and distribution, restaurants, bars, delivery services, gastro-tourism, all of which create numerous jobs and a positive image of the city, stimulating social entrepreneurship and the local economy.

In addition, urban gastronomy can act as a ‘social glue’ and a tool for inclusivity: the more diverse and democratic it is, the more people from different walks of life will be involved. As architect Carolyn Steel writes in Hungry City, food behaviour reveals the essence of human nature: invitations to eat and treats are sure signs of respect and friendliness.

Steel has written extensively about how attitudes to food have changed in the modern industrialised world, especially in Western cities: food is increasingly seen as a cheap commodity, fuel for the body and a means of entertainment. People are less likely to think about its origins, production processes and environmental impact. Supermarkets and the convenience food industry remove people from the process of food preparation, taking away control over what we eat and how it is produced.

Markets and (in some circumstances) food halls act as a counterbalance, attracting a higher quality of diverse, organic and local produce. London’s Borough Market was such a place until recently, but its popularity and rising prices have made it more of a gourmet attraction than an everyday shopping destination.

The example of Boro shows how important it is to take into account not only the interests of gastro-tourists, but also those of citizens: unilateral development leads to overcrowding, traffic jams and overburdened infrastructure. Sustainability is only possible with local participation and an integrated approach.

Riga

Agenskalns Market

The largest market on the left bank of the Daugava River is a building in the spirit of Riga’s rational Art Nouveau and one of the most remarkable examples of this trend. The building has undergone several major renovations, and from 2018 to 2022 it will be completely restored according to the design of architect Liene Griezite, restoring the authentic layout and details — including the coats of arms of Latvian cities at the top of the walls.

The main goal of the project was to develop a healthy and inclusive community in the Agenskalns neighbourhood. To achieve this, the architects worked carefully not only with the building itself, but also with its surroundings, designing sports and play areas, new green spaces and a car park, the latter of which was created with the help of local residents. Before the redevelopment, the area in front of the main entrance to the market was mainly used by motorists who parked nearby or avoided the traffic lights at the nearby busy intersection. This made the entrance difficult and unsafe for pedestrians.

In consultation with Agenskalns residents, the square was made more accessible for parents with prams and people in wheelchairs. It was separated from the road by placing flower boxes around the perimeter. It is now used as a venue for meetings and events (see programme here), and during the Christmas period the district’s main Christmas tree is placed in the centre of the square.

Tallinn

Balti Jaama Turg

The main market building consists of three two-storey limestone warehouses dating from the 1870s. In the early 2010s, they were extended with a pitched roof that follows the shape and size of the original buildings.

The project was led by KOKO Architects, one of Estonia’s most renowned architectural studios. As architect Raivo Kotov notes, they had the task of adapting the space to the dynamically developing environment and the widest possible audience: the market is located close to the Central Railway Station, the harbour, the Old Town, the creative district of Telliskivi and the popular districts of Kalamaja and Pelgulinn.

KOKO Architects solved this problem by increasing the number of entrances, making the market accessible from all sides. A pedestrian walkway with a system of terraces was created between Reisijate and Kopli streets. The architects also focused on the creative district of Telliskivi, which was developing on the site of the former railway depot, and designed a pedestrian and cycle route between it and the market square. The redesigned market opened in May 2017. It has become a thread that weaves together different histories and identities, creating a colourful urban fabric.

Rothermanni Quarter

One of Tallinn’s most famous post-industrial quarters is Rotermanni, located between the Old Town, the passenger port and the lively Viru Square. The original buildings were commissioned by Christian Abraham Rotermann, the owner of Rotermann Factories, a woodworking company founded in 1829. During the Soviet years, some of the buildings were destroyed or fell into disrepair. In 1979, the crumbling neighbourhood became one of the filming locations for Stalker. In 2001 it was given monument status. 

Now Rothermanni has been completely restored and transformed into a multi-functional pedestrian area. It consists of reconstructed and newly built buildings. Stalker’s Lane leads to a 100 metre long reconstructed old silos. KOKO architects completed the project in 2016. On the first floor, the old grain bins hanging from the ceiling have been preserved – you can see them, for example, in the RØST Bakery café. 

Malk notes that residents feel comfortable and visitors feel welcome when the project is based not only on consumption but also on spontaneous street life – temporary and seasonal markets serve this purpose.

Vilnius

Paupis Turgus

A food court in the centre of the new Paupis residential area, on the site of a factory in the centre of Vilnius, is a 2,000 square metre project by the Plazma architecture studio. It houses food and beverage outlets and grocery stores, and hosts culinary and cultural events. Located on an elevated site, the market is completely car-free and forms a fully-fledged urban square with several recreational areas, including an outdoor restaurant area with an original fountain in the form of a concrete bowl, which emphasises the industrial character of the area. There are also separate smoking areas and, closer to the Pasaka cinema, a small courtyard with sunbeds and benches. 

According to Rytis Mikulenis, head of Plazma, the market’s interior is stylised like an industrial building from the late 19th century. It is inspired by the metal and glass structures that were popular in European capitals during the Art Nouveau period. The atrium is surrounded by vibrant greenery. “We wanted to give the market the impression of a conservatory, thinking of its future visitors, because in our country warm weather can only be enjoyed in the summer,” Mikulenis explains.

Food Hall Baltasis tiltas

The pedestrian White Bridge, or Baltas Tiltas, is located in the centre of Vilnius and crosses the Neris River. It was opened in 1996. From the side of Šnipiškės district and CUP shopping centre, it is adjoined by a large area for walking and sports: there is a concrete bowl for skateboards and BMX, basketball and volleyball courts, as well as various outdoor fitness equipment. An amphitheatre with seating has been created to take advantage of the differences in level, and a pontoon has been installed in front of it. The bridge is flanked by two two-storey pavilions: one houses an IKI supermarket, the other a food court and a coffee shop chain Caffeine.

Thanks to the variety of functions, the space is used all year round, even in the harshest cold weather. The urban design was developed by ID Vilnius architects and engineers on behalf of the city administration, while the bridge itself was designed by Algimantas Nasvitis, the author of landmark modernist projects in Vilnius, including the Lithuanian Seimas building and the Neringa café.